The oilcloth table covers, enameled tin plates, exposed rafters, and red roof tiles of this patio-restaurant conjure up nostalgia for the quaint Mexican home of less frenetic times. Here you can find the things Abuelita (Grandma) still loves to cook, with a few subtle variations. Highlights of classic Mexican dishes from around the country are rib-eye steak served with traditional cactus-pad salad, duck carnitas in a glaze of smoky chili and orange, and cochinita pibil, a dish from the Yucatan Peninsula of tender pork cooked in a banana leaf and served with black beans and fried plantain . . .