As Mexico City’s 9 million residents sleep in the pre-dawn darkness, busy hands are already preparing the day’s corn tortillas in the small kitchen of Molino El Pujol, a tortilla shop that is part of a famed chef’s bid to help recover Mexico’s iconic food.
As the old tortilla machine roars to life at 5 a.m., a steaming hot mass of lime-treated corn mash is loaded into one end, where it is divided into small portions, flattened and baked. Fresh tortillas come out the other end, letting customers taste a bit of Mexican . . .
